How to Hike the GR20 Trail in Corsica

The GR20 trail in Corsica stands as one of the most challenging and breathtaking long-distance hiking routes in Europe. Stretching approximately 180 kilometers (112 miles) from north to south across the rugged heart of the Mediterranean island, the GR20 traverses alpine meadows, granite ridges, scree slopes, and deep forest valleys—all under the watchful gaze of towering peaks like Monte Cinto and Paglia Orba. Known among hikers as “the most difficult footpath in Europe,” the GR20 demands physical endurance, mental resilience, and meticulous preparation. Yet for those who complete it, the rewards are unparalleled: panoramic vistas, untouched wilderness, and a profound sense of accomplishment that few trails can match.

Unlike many well-marked European trails, the GR20 is not a leisurely stroll through pastoral landscapes. It is a relentless journey of ascents and descents, often on exposed, rocky terrain where a misstep can have serious consequences. Weather can shift rapidly, and remote sections offer limited access to supplies or emergency services. This makes preparation not just advisable—it is essential. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step roadmap to successfully hiking the GR20, covering everything from route planning and gear selection to acclimatization and mental readiness. Whether you’re a seasoned trekker or an ambitious beginner, this tutorial will equip you with the knowledge to tackle the GR20 safely and confidently.

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Understand the GR20 Route and Its Two Sections

The GR20 is divided into two distinct halves: the northern section (from Calenzana to Vizzavona) and the southern section (from Vizzavona to Conca). The full trail typically takes 12 to 15 days to complete, depending on fitness level and pace. The northern half is widely regarded as the most technically demanding, with steep ascents, exposed ridges, and the infamous “Via Ferrata” sections requiring the use of fixed cables. The southern half, while still strenuous, features more consistent terrain and longer stretches between refuges, making it slightly more manageable for those who have already endured the north.

The official start point is the village of Calenzana in the northwest, accessible by road from the town of Calvi. The endpoint is Conca, a small coastal hamlet on the southeast coast, near the town of Porto-Vecchio. Most hikers choose to hike north to south, following the traditional direction, as this allows for better acclimatization to the terrain’s increasing difficulty. However, some experienced hikers opt for the reverse route, particularly during peak season, to avoid crowds.

2. Choose Your Hiking Season

The GR20 is only open for hiking during a narrow window each year, typically from mid-June to mid-September. Outside of this period, snowfields, ice, and closed refuges make the trail impassable and dangerous. Even within this window, conditions vary significantly.

June and early July offer cooler temperatures and fewer crowds, but snow may still linger on high passes, especially on the northern section. Mid-July through August is peak season—longer daylight hours and warm weather make hiking more comfortable, but refuges are packed, and booking accommodations months in advance is non-negotiable. September provides a quieter experience with stable weather, but days are shorter, and some refuges begin closing by mid-month.

For optimal conditions, aim for late June or early September. These periods strike the best balance between manageable weather, open facilities, and fewer hikers.

3. Plan Your Itinerary and Book Refuges in Advance

There are 15 official refuges along the GR20, spaced roughly 10–18 kilometers apart. Each refuge offers dormitory-style accommodation, basic meals, and sometimes showers. Due to high demand, especially in July and August, booking is mandatory and must be done months ahead of time.

Use the official GR20 booking portal (reservations.gr20.fr) to secure your spots. You can book up to six months in advance. Choose your daily stages based on your fitness level and experience. A typical 14-day itinerary might look like this:

• Day 1: Calenzana to Refugio di Usciolu (12 km)
• Day 2: Usciolu to Refugio di Capu Tafunatu (15 km)
• Day 3: Capu Tafunatu to Refugio di Carrozzu (13 km)
• Day 4: Carrozzu to Refugio di Asinao (16 km)
• Day 5: Asinao to Refugio di Cinto (11 km)
• Day 6: Cinto to Refugio di Paglia Orba (14 km)
• Day 7: Paglia Orba to Refugio di Tighiettu (12 km)
• Day 8: Tighiettu to Vizzavona (18 km)
• Day 9: Vizzavona to Refugio di L’Agnellu (14 km)
• Day 10: L’Agnellu to Refugio di Ciottulu a i Mori (13 km)
• Day 11: Ciottulu a i Mori to Refugio di Muvrella (15 km)
• Day 12: Muvrella to Refugio di Ristoru (12 km)
• Day 13: Ristoru to Refugio di Carrozzu (14 km)
• Day 14: Carrozzu to Conca (13 km)

Note: Some hikers skip certain stages or add rest days. Always allow flexibility for weather delays or fatigue. Do not attempt to rush the trail—pace is key to completion.

4. Prepare Your Gear: What to Pack

Weight is your enemy on the GR20. Every extra gram adds strain to your knees and back over 180 kilometers. Aim for a backpack weighing no more than 10–12 kg (22–26 lbs) including food and water.

Essential Gear Checklist:

• Backpack: 40–50L with a sturdy hip belt and good ventilation.
• Footwear: Rigid-soled, ankle-supporting hiking boots broken in well before departure. Trail runners are not recommended due to rocky terrain.
• Clothing: Moisture-wicking base layers, insulated mid-layer, waterproof and windproof shell, quick-dry hiking pants, thermal socks (3–4 pairs), gloves, and a warm hat.
• Navigation: GPS device (Garmin inReach or similar) with pre-loaded GR20 track, paper map (IGN 1:25,000 scale), and compass. Do not rely solely on smartphone apps—signal is unreliable.
• Water: 2–3 liter capacity hydration system (bladder + bottles). Water sources are available but must be filtered or treated. Carry a UV purifier (SteriPEN) or iodine tablets.
• Food: High-calorie, lightweight meals: energy bars, nuts, dried fruit, dehydrated meals (for refuge dinners), instant oatmeal, and electrolyte tablets. Refuges offer meals, but prices are high and menus limited.
• Shelter: While refuges are available, some hikers carry a lightweight bivy sack or tarp for emergency use or to avoid crowded dorms.
• First Aid: Blister care (moleskin, leukotape), painkillers, antiseptic wipes, personal medications, and a small trauma kit.
• Other: Headlamp with extra batteries, trekking poles (highly recommended), sunglasses, sunscreen (SPF 50+), and a microfiber towel.

Do not carry unnecessary items. Leave your camera, heavy books, or extra clothing behind. The trail is unforgiving to overpacking.

5. Train for the Physical Demands

Physical preparation is non-negotiable. The GR20 involves over 10,000 meters of cumulative elevation gain and loss—equivalent to climbing Mount Everest from sea level twice. Your training should begin at least 3–4 months in advance.

Training Plan:

• Cardio: 4–5 days per week of hiking, stair climbing, or incline treadmill workouts. Include weighted packs (10–15 kg) to simulate trail conditions.
• Strength: Focus on leg muscles (quads, hamstrings, glutes) and core stability. Squats, lunges, step-ups, and planks are essential.
• Endurance: Complete at least two 20+ km hikes with significant elevation on consecutive weekends to build stamina.
• Balance and Agility: Practice walking on uneven surfaces, rocks, and steep slopes. Yoga or balance board training helps prevent ankle rolls.
• Practice with Gear: Wear your boots and carry your full pack on training hikes to identify potential chafing or discomfort.

Additionally, train your mental resilience. The GR20 is as much a psychological challenge as a physical one. Learn to push through fatigue, manage fear on exposed sections, and maintain focus during long, monotonous stretches.

6. Learn the Technical Sections

Several sections of the GR20 require the use of fixed cables and ladders. These are not technical climbs, but they demand caution, especially when tired or in wet conditions.

The most notable technical sections include:

• Capu Tafunatu Ridge: A narrow, exposed path with steep drops on both sides. Use the cables for balance, never for pulling yourself up.
• Asinao to Cinto: Steep scree and rocky steps with fixed cables along the upper ridge.
• Paglia Orba to Tighiettu: A series of ladders and cable-assisted climbs on granite slabs.

Practice using trekking poles to stabilize yourself on cables. Never rush. Move one hand and one foot at a time. If you feel unsafe, stop and wait for others to pass. Many accidents occur due to overconfidence or haste.

7. Manage Water and Nutrition Daily

Water sources are marked on maps but are not always reliable. Refuges provide water, but it’s often collected from mountain springs and may taste metallic or contain sediment. Always treat it.

Drink at least 3–4 liters per day, even if you don’t feel thirsty. Dehydration leads to fatigue, cramps, and impaired judgment. Carry electrolyte tablets to replenish lost minerals.

On the trail, eat small, frequent snacks every 45–60 minutes: nuts, dried fruit, energy gels, or chocolate. Avoid heavy meals during the day. At refuges, prioritize protein and carbohydrates—pasta, rice, lentils, and meat stews are common. Avoid excessive sugar or caffeine, which can cause energy crashes.

8. Navigate the Trail with Confidence

The GR20 is well-marked with red and white paint blazes, but signage can be faded, obscured by vegetation, or missing in rocky sections. Always cross-reference your GPS track with the trail markers.

Download the GR20 GPX file from official sources or apps like Komoot or Gaia GPS. Save it offline. Mark key waypoints: refuges, water sources, and junctions.

At trail junctions, pause and confirm your direction. It’s easy to veer off course in mist or after rain. If unsure, backtrack to the last visible blaze or ask other hikers. Never guess.

9. Respect the Environment and Local Culture

Corsica’s natural beauty is protected. The GR20 runs through a UNESCO-recognized biosphere reserve. Follow Leave No Trace principles strictly:

• Carry out all trash, including food wrappers and toilet paper.
• Use designated toilet areas or dig a cathole 15 cm deep at least 60 meters from water sources.
• Do not pick plants, disturb wildlife, or feed animals.
• Keep noise to a minimum—this is a wilderness corridor, not a festival.

Respect local customs. Corsicans are proud of their heritage. Learn a few phrases in Corsican: “Grazie” (thank you), “Bonghjornu” (good morning), and “Paghjella” (traditional polyphonic singing). Many refuge hosts speak French or Italian—politeness goes a long way.

10. Prepare for Emergencies

Cell service is spotty. Emergency beacons are your best safety tool. Carry a satellite communicator like Garmin inReach Mini 2 or a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon). Register your itinerary with a trusted contact before departure.

Know the emergency numbers: 112 (EU-wide) or 15 (medical) and 18 (fire/rescue). Refuges have radios for emergencies. If you’re injured or lost, stay put. Do not attempt to descend alone.

Travel insurance that covers high-altitude trekking and search-and-rescue is mandatory. Verify coverage before departure.

Best Practices

Start Early and Finish Early

Begin your daily hike before 7:00 AM. This allows you to cross exposed ridges before afternoon thunderstorms roll in. Corsican weather is notoriously unpredictable—clouds can gather rapidly, turning trails into slick, dangerous paths. By finishing your stage by 4:00 PM, you’ll have ample time to rest, eat, and prepare for the next day.

Travel Light, But Don’t Skip Essentials

Many hikers underestimate the need for warmth. Even in summer, nighttime temperatures at 2,000 meters can drop below 5°C. A lightweight down jacket and thermal layers are non-negotiable. Similarly, don’t skip blister prevention—taping your feet before the hike begins saves days of pain.

Adapt Your Pace Daily

There is no “right” speed. Some days you’ll feel strong; others, you’ll be exhausted. Listen to your body. If you’re feeling unwell, take a rest day. It’s better to extend your trip by a day than to push through and risk injury or illness.

Use Trekking Poles Correctly

Trekking poles reduce knee strain by up to 30% on descents. Adjust them so your elbows form a 90-degree angle when the tips touch the ground. Use wrist straps properly to avoid hand fatigue. On steep ascents, plant poles slightly ahead of your feet for leverage.

Stay Hydrated, Even When You Don’t Feel Thirsty

At altitude, your body loses moisture faster. Your urine should be pale yellow. If it’s dark, drink more. Dehydration causes headaches, dizziness, and altitude sickness symptoms—even at moderate elevations.

Manage Your Mental State

Long-distance hiking can trigger loneliness, doubt, or frustration. Practice mindfulness: focus on your breath, the rhythm of your steps, the sounds of nature. Keep a journal. Write down one positive thing each day. Celebrate small wins—completing a tough ascent, sharing a meal with fellow hikers, seeing a sunrise from a ridge.

Be a Considerate Refuge Guest

Refuges are shared spaces. Keep your gear organized. Store food in sealed containers to avoid attracting rodents. Be quiet after 10:00 PM. Clean up after meals. Thank the staff—they work long hours in difficult conditions.

Don’t Underestimate the Descent

Most injuries occur on downhill sections. Fatigue leads to sloppy foot placement. Use poles, take small steps, and avoid rushing. Descents are harder on your knees than ascents.

Plan for Post-Hike Recovery

After completing the GR20, your body will be sore. Allow 3–5 days of rest. Gentle walking, stretching, and hydration will aid recovery. Avoid intense exercise immediately after. Your muscles need time to repair.

Tools and Resources

Official Resources

• GR20 Official Website (reservations.gr20.fr): The only authorized platform for refuge bookings. Use it to check availability, view trail conditions, and download official maps.
• Parc Naturel Régional de Corse: Provides up-to-date information on weather, trail closures, and conservation efforts.
• IGN Maps (1:25,000): The gold standard for French hiking maps. Purchase the “GR20” series (Sheet 1: Calenzana–Vizzavona; Sheet 2: Vizzavona–Conca).

Navigation Apps

• Komoot: Offers offline GR20 routes, elevation profiles, and user reviews. Highly recommended for route planning.
• Gaia GPS: Allows custom layering of topographic maps and satellite imagery. Great for backup navigation.
• Wikiloc: Contains thousands of user-uploaded GR20 tracks. Use them to compare routes and identify popular variations.

Books and Guides

• GR20: The Complete Guide by Jean-Pierre and Anne-Claire Viala – Detailed stage-by-stage descriptions, photos, and tips.
• Walking the GR20 by Mike O’Meara – A narrative account by a British hiker, ideal for inspiration and mental preparation.
• Lonely Planet Corsica – General travel context, transport options to/from trailheads, and cultural insights.

Online Communities

• Reddit r/GR20: Active forum with real-time updates, gear advice, and hiker stories.
• Facebook Groups: “GR20 Hikers & Friends” and “Corsica Trekking Community” offer last-minute booking help and weather alerts.
• YouTube Channels: Search for “GR20 vlog” to see real-time footage of the trail’s most challenging sections.

Weather Forecasting Tools

• Meteoblue: High-resolution mountain forecasts for Corsica. Use the “Alpine” layer for elevation-specific data.
• Windy.com: Real-time wind, precipitation, and cloud cover overlays. Essential for planning ridge crossings.
• AccuWeather Mountain Forecast: Reliable for daily temperature and storm predictions.

Real Examples

Example 1: Sarah, 34, First-Time Long-Distance Hiker

Sarah had never hiked more than 15 km in a day before deciding to tackle the GR20. She trained for five months, hiking local hills with a 12 kg pack. She booked her refuges six months in advance and downloaded Komoot’s GR20 route. On Day 3, she encountered snow on the Capu Tafunatu ridge. Instead of pushing through, she waited two hours for the sun to melt the ice. She used trekking poles to test the snowpack and moved slowly. She completed the trail in 15 days, taking one rest day in Vizzavona. “I cried when I reached Conca,” she said. “Not because I was tired—but because I proved to myself I could do something I thought was impossible.”

Example 2: Marc and Julien, 48 and 51, Experienced Alpine Hikers

Both former military personnel, Marc and Julien completed the GR20 in 10 days, carrying only 8 kg each. They used a satellite communicator and pre-packed dehydrated meals. They skipped one refuge to camp near the Col de Vizzavona, using a tarp. “We didn’t need the comfort,” Marc said. “We needed the silence.” They avoided crowds by starting at dawn and finishing before noon each day. Their only issue? Blistered heels from new boots they hadn’t broken in. “Lesson learned,” Julien added. “Never wear new boots on a 180 km hike.”

Example 3: The Group That Got Caught in a Storm

A group of six hikers started their ascent to the Col de Vizzavona on a clear morning. By 11:00 AM, thick fog rolled in, and lightning struck nearby. They were unprepared—no rain jackets, no emergency shelter. One hiker slipped on wet rock and sprained an ankle. They used their Garmin inReach to send a distress signal. Rescue teams arrived after four hours. The group was evacuated by helicopter. “We thought we were fine because the forecast said ‘sunny,’” said one member. “We forgot that mountains don’t care about forecasts.”

FAQs

Is the GR20 suitable for beginners?

The GR20 is not recommended for complete beginners. It requires prior hiking experience, especially on rocky, uneven terrain. If you’ve completed multi-day treks with significant elevation gain (e.g., Tour du Mont Blanc or Camino de Santiago), you may be ready. Otherwise, train for at least six months and consider a shorter Corsican trail first, like the GR20’s “easy” alternative, the GR20 Nord.

Can I hike the GR20 alone?

Yes, many hikers complete the GR20 solo. It’s safe if you’re well-prepared, carry a satellite communicator, and inform someone of your itinerary. However, hiking with a partner increases safety, especially on technical sections. Always let someone know your daily plans.

Are dogs allowed on the GR20?

No. Dogs are prohibited on the GR20 trail and in the national park. They pose a risk to wildlife, can be injured on rocky terrain, and are not permitted in refuges.

Do I need a visa to hike the GR20?

Corsica is part of France. If you’re from the EU, no visa is required. Non-EU visitors must have a valid Schengen visa. Check your country’s requirements before traveling.

What’s the best way to get to Calenzana or Conca?

From mainland France, fly to Ajaccio or Bastia airports. From there, take a bus or taxi to Calenzana (north) or Conca (south). Buses run seasonally; check Corsica Bus or Flixbus schedules. Some hikers rent cars for flexibility.

How much does it cost to hike the GR20?

Refuge stays range from €35–€55 per night (including dinner and breakfast). Food and supplies add €15–€25 per day. Transport to/from trailheads: €20–€60. Gear: €500–€1,500 if buying new. Total estimated cost: €1,200–€2,000, depending on gear and travel style.

What happens if I can’t finish the trail?

There are road access points at Vizzavona, Asinao, and Tighiettu. You can exit the trail and take a bus or taxi to the nearest town. Refuges can help coordinate transport. Don’t feel ashamed—many hikers adjust their plans due to weather, injury, or fatigue.

Can I camp wild on the GR20?

Wild camping is strictly prohibited along the GR20 and in the national park. Use only designated refuges. Violations can result in fines up to €150. Some hikers use emergency bivouacs in extreme situations—but only as a last resort.

Is the GR20 crowded?

July and August are very busy, especially on the northern section. June and September are significantly quieter. To avoid crowds, start early, take less popular routes, and consider hiking the trail in reverse.

Do I need to speak French?

Basic French helps, but many refuge staff speak English, Italian, or German. Learn key phrases like “Où est l’eau?” (Where is the water?) and “Combien ça coûte?” (How much does it cost?).

Conclusion

Hiking the GR20 is not merely a physical journey—it is a transformation. It tests your limits, sharpens your focus, and reconnects you with the raw power of nature. The trail does not reward speed or spectacle; it rewards persistence, humility, and respect. Every step on its granite ridges, every drop of water carried from a mountain spring, every silent sunrise witnessed from a high pass becomes part of you.

Success on the GR20 comes not from strength alone, but from preparation, patience, and presence. It requires you to plan meticulously, to listen to your body, and to surrender to the rhythm of the mountains. You will face fear on exposed ridges, fatigue on long climbs, and loneliness in quiet valleys. But you will also find wonder—in the scent of wild thyme after rain, in the laughter shared over a simple pasta meal at a refuge, in the quiet pride of knowing you crossed a landscape few will ever see.

If you’re ready to take on the GR20, begin now. Book your refuges. Train your body. Pack your gear. Study the maps. Respect the trail. And when you stand at Conca, looking back at the path behind you, you won’t just see kilometers walked—you’ll see the story of your resilience written across the Corsican mountains.