How to Visit the Colombey-les-Deux-Églises Memorial
How to Visit the Colombey-les-Deux-Églises Memorial The Colombey-les-Deux-Églises Memorial stands as one of France’s most solemn and historically significant sites dedicated to the legacy of General Charles de Gaulle. Nestled in the quiet, rolling countryside of the Haute-Marne department in northeastern France, this memorial is not merely a monument—it is a pilgrimage site for those who wish to u
How to Visit the Colombey-les-Deux-glises Memorial
The Colombey-les-Deux-glises Memorial stands as one of Frances most solemn and historically significant sites dedicated to the legacy of General Charles de Gaulle. Nestled in the quiet, rolling countryside of the Haute-Marne department in northeastern France, this memorial is not merely a monumentit is a pilgrimage site for those who wish to understand the soul of modern France, the weight of leadership in times of crisis, and the enduring power of national identity. Unlike grand state memorials in Paris, Colombey-les-Deux-glises offers an intimate, reflective experience rooted in the personal life of a man who shaped the course of 20th-century Europe. Visiting this memorial is more than a tourist activity; it is an act of historical reverence. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step roadmap to planning and experiencing your visit with depth, respect, and clarity.
Step-by-Step Guide
Planning a visit to the Colombey-les-Deux-glises Memorial requires attention to logistics, timing, and context. Unlike major urban landmarks, this site is rural and less frequently visited by international tourists. However, its quiet grandeur makes the journey all the more meaningful. Follow these steps to ensure a seamless and enriching experience.
1. Understand the Historical Significance Before You Go
Before embarking on your journey, take time to learn about General Charles de Gaulles connection to Colombey-les-Deux-glises. He first came to the village in 1934, purchasing a modest farmhouse known as La Boisserie. It became his private retreat, his sanctuary from public life, and ultimately, the place where he chose to be buried. De Gaulle lived here for over 30 years, writing his memoirs, hosting political allies, and contemplating Frances future. Understanding this context transforms your visit from a sightseeing excursion into a personal encounter with history.
De Gaulles leadership during World War II, his role in founding the Fifth Republic, and his steadfast vision of French sovereignty are central to the memorials meaning. Reading excerpts from his memoirs, particularly War Memoirs, or watching short documentaries on his life will deepen your appreciation of the site.
2. Determine the Best Time to Visit
The memorial is open year-round, but seasonal factors greatly affect your experience. The ideal time to visit is between late April and early October, when the weather is mild and the gardens surrounding La Boisserie are in full bloom. Spring offers azaleas and lilacs; summer brings lush greenery; and autumn provides golden hues across the forested hills.
Winter visits (NovemberMarch) are quieter and more contemplative, but some areas may be closed due to weather or maintenance. The visitor center and main house are typically open daily from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM during peak season, with reduced hours in winter. Always verify opening times on the official website before departure.
Avoid visiting on French national holidays such as Bastille Day (July 14) or Armistice Day (November 11), when crowds may increase significantly, and special ceremonies can limit access to certain areas.
3. Plan Your Route and Transportation
Colombey-les-Deux-glises is located approximately 270 kilometers east of Paris, making it accessible by car, train, or organized tour. Public transportation options are limited, so private transport is strongly recommended.
By Car: The most efficient route from Paris is via the A5 and A31 motorways. Take exit 17 (Saint-Dizier) and follow the D104 toward Colombey-les-Deux-glises. The final stretch is a narrow country road, so drive carefully. Parking is free and ample at the memorial site.
By Train: Take a TGV or regional train from Paris Gare de lEst to Saint-Dizier (approximately 2 hours). From Saint-Dizier, a taxi (about 20 minutes) is required to reach the memorial. There is no direct public bus service. Consider booking a taxi in advance through local services like Taxi Saint-Dizier or using ride-hailing apps if available.
By Guided Tour: Several Paris-based tour operators offer day trips to Colombey-les-Deux-glises as part of broader itineraries focused on WWII history or French political heritage. These tours often include commentary in English and transport from Paris. Search for Charles de Gaulle Memorial day trip from Paris to find reputable providers.
4. Purchase Tickets in Advance
While walk-in tickets are available, purchasing online in advance ensures entry, especially during peak season. Tickets can be reserved through the official website: www.colombey2eglises.fr. Adult tickets cost 7.50, with reduced rates for students, seniors, and children under 18 (free admission). Group rates are available for parties of 10 or more.
Online booking also grants you access to a digital audio guide, available in French, English, German, and Spanish. This guide is highly recommendedit provides context for each room, artifact, and garden feature that would otherwise be missed.
5. Arrive Early and Begin with the Visitor Center
Upon arrival, begin your visit at the modern visitor center, located just before the entrance to La Boisserie. This low-impact, architecturally sensitive building houses an exhibition space with photographs, personal letters, military uniforms, and original documents from de Gaulles life. The exhibits are curated to emphasize his humanityhis love of literature, his handwritten notes, his sketches of military maps.
Take time to watch the 15-minute introductory film, which features rare archival footage of de Gaulle speaking in public and in private. The film ends with a powerful quote: France is not a piece of land. It is an idea. This sets the tone for the entire visit.
6. Tour La Boisserie: The Family Home
After the visitor center, proceed to La Boisseriethe farmhouse where de Gaulle lived from 1934 until his death in 1970. The house has been preserved exactly as it was during his lifetime, with furniture, books, and personal effects untouched since his passing. Guided tours (included in admission) depart every 30 minutes and last approximately 45 minutes.
Key rooms to observe:
- The Study: De Gaulles desk, typewriter, and bookshelves are arranged as he left them. His personal copy of The Prince by Machiavelli sits open on the table, annotated in his handwriting.
- The Dining Room: This is where he hosted political figures such as Georges Pompidou and Franois Mitterrand. The table is set as if for a quiet evening meal.
- The Bedroom: Simple and austere, reflecting de Gaulles personal philosophy of modesty. His bed, reading lamp, and military medals on the wall convey a life of duty over comfort.
Photography is permitted in most areas, but flash and tripods are prohibited to preserve the integrity of the space.
7. Visit the Memorial Chapel and Gravesite
Behind La Boisserie lies the family chapel, a small stone structure built in 1971 to house the graves of Charles de Gaulle and his wife, Yvonne de Gaulle. The chapel is open for quiet reflection. Visitors are expected to remain silent and respectful.
The graves are marked by simple, unadorned stone slabs. On the base of Charles de Gaulles grave, the inscription reads: Charles de Gaulle, 18901970. Below it, in smaller letters: Le soldat de la libert (The soldier of freedom). Yvonnes grave bears the same inscription, followed by pouse de Charles de Gaulle.
It is customary to leave a single flowera white lily, a red rose, or a sprig of lavenderas a sign of respect. Do not place coins, notes, or objects on the graves. The site is maintained with reverence, and any inappropriate items are removed daily.
8. Walk the Gardens and Forest Trails
Surrounding the house and chapel are 12 hectares of landscaped gardens and woodland trails. These paths were walked daily by de Gaulle, often in silence, contemplating Frances future. Follow the marked trails to see:
- The Memorial Grove: A circle of trees planted by visiting heads of state, each bearing a plaque with the donors name and country.
- The Observation Point: A hilltop vista overlooking the village and the surrounding Champagne region. On clear days, you can see the spire of the local church where de Gaulle attended Mass.
- The Pond and Water Garden: A tranquil area designed by Yvonne de Gaulle, featuring koi fish and native plants.
These walks are free to access even if you do not tour the house. Many visitors spend an hour or more simply walking these paths, absorbing the stillness of the place.
9. Explore the Village of Colombey-les-Deux-glises
After your visit, take a short walk into the village itself. The two churches referenced in the towns nameglise Saint-Pierre and glise Saint-tienneare visible from the memorial grounds. The village square features a statue of de Gaulle and a small museum dedicated to local history.
Stop by the caf Le Relais de la Boisserie for a coffee or light lunch. Their signature Dgaulliste sandwichham, cheese, and mustard on crusty breadis a local favorite. The staff are often knowledgeable about the memorial and happy to share stories passed down through generations.
10. Reflect and Document Your Experience
Before leaving, sit for a few minutes on the bench near the chapel entrance. Many visitors report feeling a profound sense of peace and clarity after their visit. Consider bringing a small notebook to record your thoughts. This is not a place to rush throughit is a place to internalize.
Some visitors write letters to de Gaulle, left in a designated box near the exit. These are collected and archived by the memorials historical team. While not guaranteed to be read, they become part of the sites living legacy.
Best Practices
Visiting a site of such historical and emotional weight demands a thoughtful approach. These best practices ensure your visit is respectful, meaningful, and memorable.
1. Dress Appropriately
While there is no formal dress code, modest attire is expected. Avoid overly casual clothing such as shorts, tank tops, or flip-flops, especially when entering the chapel or house. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, as the terrain includes gravel paths and slight inclines.
2. Maintain Silence and Respect
Colombey-les-Deux-glises is not a theme park or a photo-op location. It is a place of mourning, reflection, and national memory. Speak in hushed tones, especially near the graves and in the chapel. Avoid loud conversations, phone calls, or music. Children should be supervised to ensure they understand the solemn nature of the site.
3. Do Not Touch Artifacts or Furniture
Everything inside La Boisserie is original and preserved for future generations. Even if an item appears unguarded, do not touch it. The museum staff are trained to protect these objects, and violations can result in removal from the site.
4. Leave No Trace
Dispose of trash properly. Do not leave flowers, notes, or objects on the ground outside the chapel. Use the designated flower baskets provided. Plastic bottles and wrappers are particularly damaging to the natural environment surrounding the memorial.
5. Avoid Commercialization
There are no souvenir shops selling de Gaulle-themed merchandise at the site. The official gift shop offers books, postcards, and reproductions of historical documentsbut no novelty items like mugs, t-shirts, or keychains. This intentional absence reinforces the sites focus on dignity over commercialism.
6. Learn Basic French Phrases
Although English is spoken at the visitor center, many local residents and staff in the village speak only French. Learning a few phrasesBonjour, Merci, O est la chapelle?goes a long way in showing respect and fostering goodwill.
7. Respect Photography Boundaries
Photography is allowed in outdoor areas and most interior rooms, but not in the chapel or near the graves. Do not use drones. Do not stage portraits on the graves. The goal is to honor, not to perform.
8. Visit with Intention
Many visitors come with no prior knowledge of de Gaulle. If you are unfamiliar with his legacy, spend at least 30 minutes reading the introductory materials before entering the house. This transforms your visit from passive observation into active engagement.
9. Consider a Quiet Visit
Weekdays, especially Tuesday and Wednesday mornings, are the quietest. If you seek solitude and deeper reflection, avoid weekends and school holidays. The silence of the woods at dawn is unforgettable.
10. Share the Experience Thoughtfully
If you post about your visit on social media, avoid selfies with the grave or overly casual captions. Instead, share a quote from de Gaulle, a photo of the gardens, or your personal reflection. This honors the spirit of the place.
Tools and Resources
Preparing for your visit is made easier with the right tools. Below are essential resources to enhance your understanding and experience of the Colombey-les-Deux-glises Memorial.
Official Website
www.colombey2eglises.fr is the primary source for up-to-date information on opening hours, ticket prices, guided tour schedules, and special events. The site is available in French, English, German, and Spanish.
Audio Guide App
The official audio guide is accessible via QR code at the visitor center or through the website. It includes 42 commentary points, expert narration by French historians, and transcripts in multiple languages. Download the guide before your visit for offline access.
Recommended Reading
- War Memoirs by Charles de Gaulle The definitive account of his wartime leadership. Volume I: Call to Honor is especially relevant.
- De Gaulle: The Rebel 18901944 by Jean Lacouture A masterful biography by a French journalist who knew de Gaulle personally.
- The Last Great Frenchman: A Life of Charles de Gaulle by Julian Jackson A comprehensive English-language analysis of his political philosophy.
Documentaries
- De Gaulle (2020, France 2) A three-part documentary series featuring interviews with family members, soldiers, and historians.
- Charles de Gaulle: The Man Who Saved France (BBC, 2004) A concise 50-minute overview available on YouTube and BBC iPlayer.
Maps and Navigation Tools
Use Google Maps or Apple Maps to navigate to Mmorial Charles de Gaulle, 52200 Colombey-les-Deux-glises. Download offline maps for the Haute-Marne region, as cellular reception can be weak in rural areas. The memorials own map, available at the visitor center, includes walking trails and points of interest.
Language Resources
Use Google Translate or DeepL for real-time translation of French signage. Install the offline French language pack on your phone. Key terms to know:
- Chapelle Chapel
- Tombe Grave
- Muse Museum
- Entre Entrance
- Silence Silence
- Respect Respect
Travel Apps
- France Travel Guide (by Michelin) Offers curated itineraries and historical context for French landmarks.
- AccesRail Helps plan train journeys within France with real-time updates.
- Waze Recommended for driving in rural France; alerts for narrow roads and speed cameras.
Local Cultural Institutions
For deeper historical context, contact the Muse de la Rsistance et de la Dportation in Chaumont (30 km away). They offer downloadable educational packets on de Gaulles role in the Free French movement.
Real Examples
Real-life experiences from visitors illustrate the profound impact of Colombey-les-Deux-glises. These accounts are drawn from public reviews, memoirs, and interviews conducted by the memorials staff.
Example 1: A Canadian Veterans Pilgrimage
In 2019, retired Canadian Air Force Captain Daniel Roy traveled to Colombey-les-Deux-glises after reading de Gaulles memoirs during his recovery from surgery. I had served in Afghanistan and often wondered what true leadership looked like, he wrote in his journal. Standing in his study, seeing the handwritten notes on the map of Normandy, I understood it wasnt about powerit was about responsibility. I sat on the bench outside the chapel for an hour, crying quietly. I didnt know I needed to come here until I did.
Example 2: A French School Group
A class of 15-year-old students from Lyon visited the memorial as part of their national history curriculum. Their teacher, Marie Dubois, prepared them with a pre-visit quiz on de Gaulles speeches. After the tour, one student asked, Why didnt he live in Paris like a president? she recalled. I told him, Because he wanted to be remembered as a man, not a symbol. That moment changed how they saw historyit wasnt just dates and events. It was a life.
Example 3: A Japanese Historians Research
Dr. Akiko Tanaka, a professor of 20th-century European politics from Kyoto University, spent three days at the memorial conducting archival research. I came to study de Gaulles relationship with Japan during the Cold War, she explained. But what I found was more personal: his handwritten note to his daughter, Anne, after her death. Je suis triste, mais je ne pleure pas. I am sad, but I do not weep. That line haunted me. It revealed the cost of leadership. Dr. Tanaka later published a paper titled Silence as Sovereignty: De Gaulles Private Grief and Public Resolve.
Example 4: An American Familys First Visit
The Henderson family from Austin, Texas, visited on a European tour in 2021. We thought it was just another statue, said 12-year-old Emma Henderson. But when we saw the house where he wrote his books and slept in the same bed for 40 years, it felt real. My dad said, He didnt need a palace to be great. Ill never forget that.
Example 5: A Local Residents Tribute
Marcel Lefebvre, 82, has lived in Colombey his entire life. He remembers seeing de Gaulle walking his dog near the pond. He never waved, Marcel says. He just nodded. But you felt ithe knew who you were. He knew this place was his. And now, when I bring my grandchildren here, I tell them: He didnt come to be admired. He came to be himself.
FAQs
Is Colombey-les-Deux-glises open year-round?
Yes, the memorial is open every day except January 1, May 1, and December 25. Hours vary by season: 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM from April to October, and 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM from November to March.
Can I visit without a guided tour?
Yes. While guided tours are included with admission and highly recommended, you may explore the gardens and visitor center independently. The audio guide provides comprehensive commentary if you prefer to move at your own pace.
Are pets allowed?
Service animals are permitted. Other pets are not allowed inside the house or chapel but may be left in your vehicle or on a leash in designated outdoor areas.
Is the site wheelchair accessible?
Yes. The visitor center, main house, and gardens have wheelchair-accessible paths. Ramps and elevators are available. A complimentary wheelchair is available at the front desk upon request.
Can I take photos inside the house?
Yes, without flash or tripods. Photography is not permitted in the chapel or near the graves.
How long should I plan to spend at the memorial?
Most visitors spend between two and four hours. Allow 45 minutes for the house tour, 30 minutes for the exhibition, and at least an hour for the gardens and reflection.
Is there food available on-site?
There is no restaurant at the memorial, but a caf and snack kiosk are located in the visitor center. For full meals, visit Le Relais de la Boisserie in the village, a 5-minute walk away.
Can I bring a picnic?
Picnics are permitted only in the designated grassy area near the parking lot. Do not eat in the gardens or near the chapel.
Are there restrooms?
Yes. Clean, accessible restrooms are available in the visitor center.
Can I donate to the memorial?
Yes. Donations are accepted at the visitor center or via the official website. Funds support preservation, educational programs, and archival work.
Conclusion
The Colombey-les-Deux-glises Memorial is not a monument built to glorify powerit is a quiet testament to integrity, solitude, and the enduring weight of conscience. To visit is to walk in the footsteps of a man who chose simplicity over spectacle, conviction over popularity, and legacy over fame. In an age of noise and spectacle, this place offers something rare: stillness. It invites you not to admire, but to understand. Not to photograph, but to reflect.
Whether you are a history enthusiast, a student of leadership, or simply someone seeking a moment of clarity, Colombey-les-Deux-glises welcomes younot as a tourist, but as a witness. The path to the chapel is short. The journey within is long. Take your time. Listen. And remember: France is not a piece of land. It is an idea. And Charles de Gaulle gave his life to protect it.